Posts Tagged ‘help’

We can define it very easily, it is the amount of angle that lens can capture. How I said, very simple. But how to use it and how it can help you? With wider lenses you can get a lot of stuff in the photo. These lenses are great for landscapes, journalists etc. Sometimes you have to narrow the angle of view to get less objects in photo.  Here is a short video done by Mark Wallace and Adorama TV.

There is another reason why you should know something more about the angle of view. Using wide and ultra-wide lenses you can pick one subject in the foreground and make him stand out in comparison with background. Cameras don’t see in 3D space, so closer objects are bigger and objects furhter away are smaller. This proportion is increased when you use wide lenses.

On oposite site, sometimes you need that flat look and using wide lens won’t work. A perfect example for this are portraits. You can break the rule, it isn’t carved in stone, but you have to know how to use it otherwise you won’t have good results.

Here are some examples of using the angle of view. First I was wide and wanted to capture the whole scene. But after some time I’ve realized, the top isn’t so good. I just zoomed in and excluded it from the picture.

Rock in River

Rock in River

Rock in River Processed

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In HDR photography we are taking multiple exposures of the same scene. So the best possible situation is shooting some architecture or landscape w/o any people, animals or wind involved. By putting camera on good sturdy tripod we minimize it’s movement and by using AEB (Auto Exposure Bracketing) camera takes the images. Pretty simple, but this doesn’t work too much in real world.

In real world you can put your camera on tripod and set AEB. That is great and easy way how to get started. But now in Prague I don’t have my Manfrotto so I have to shoot hand-held. And believe me, with my 70-200 f/4 NON IS it is quite hard to keep it perfect steady. To get sharp shots I use higher ISO. But the worst problem is movement. People moving in the photo. When there is just one person, you can play with it, process multiple photos and than use layers to hide the moving person.

But what if you are in a square? Or even better, what if you are on crowdy Venceslav’s square? This is the time I let software itself to remove ghosting. In Photoshop CS5 you can choose one sample image and the ghosting will be removed acording that image. But I didn’t get so nice results from Photoshop as I did with Photomatix. So I tested out version 4 with reduced ghosting and it is blast!

Believe me, if you want noise in your photos, shoot with a Canon camera that has DIG!C III processor and than use Photomatix. You have to apply a lot of noise reduction to the image and as a result you get a less sharp image. You just have to find that sweet spot. To reduce ghosting check “Reduce Ghosting Artifacts” and I usually use High setting. That’s all folks! Here is a final image w/o movement. This time I put it in big dimensions, click on it to see in bigger size and check the fine work of Photomatix.

HDR of Venceslav's Square

Everybody who is starting in anything needs to be inspired. It can be a person, it can be an achievement and it can be a ton of other different things and subjects. I have many “Gurus” in photography, especially in portraits. Here I’d like to stop for a sec and tell you a bit about NAPP and Kelby Training Online.

NAPP stands for National Association of Photoshop Professionals and was founded by Scott Kelby. He is one of the Photoshop Guys and a great photographer. His company, Kelby Media Group, founded another series of webs and smaller independend parts like Kelby Training Online, Kelby Training Live, Photoshop User Tv, D-Town etc.

Kelby Training Online is a cool website where you can pay for membership and you can watch videos with the best photographers. It is a bit how they do that. But it isn’t just about photography, there is a lot of Photoshop, Dreamweaver, Web, Flash, Premiere and a bunch of other software. Basically this is the place to learn stuff about shooting. You can find there photographers like Joe McNally, Moose Peterson, Rick Sammon, Scott Kelby, Jeremy Cowart and more.

All these guys inspire me and they are telling me, throught the videos, how to shoot. When I’m interested in lighting I watch some Joe McNally classes. The Ultimate Guru for me is Jeremy. His portraits is awesome! If he told me, that this show was made next to the public toillets, I wouldn’t believe him and even think he is crazy! But I saw it on the video, I saw what he did and the whole story of taking the image. For me, Jeremy is the guy I should be learning from, his tips are killers!

Adorama TV posted a chat with Jeremy so you can check it out.

My favorite HDR photograher, Trey Ratcliff posted some time ago with tips for shooting people on the street and in today’s post he linked to it. I cannot tell you anything more than that he’s right. Follow these tips, well maybe except the first one, and you can get some great results. Anyway here is the link so check it out.

... And she gave me the smile ... 🙂

Hi everybody! After some time I’m posting here another video done by Mark Wallace for Adorama TV. It is about depth of field. What effects it, how it effects etc. Believe me, it isn’t just about shooting wide open. So without any extra words, here is the video.

OK, so after some time processing in Lightroom and Photoshop and few episodes of Gilmore Girls I finally finished the first favorite portrait. In this post I’ll tell you all the settings I used in the camera and lighting. Of course I’ll show you a small drawing with light to know where it was, in what position was model and where I was shooting from.

 

Portrait Setup

Here you can see the basic setup. I bought for this event a 32″ shoot-thru umbrella. Why that small size umbrella? Well to be honest I with this type of umbrella you can get it very close to your subject and my 430 EX II isn’t powerfull enought to light the whole umbrella, it has a bit problems even with my 32″. Yeah and BTW, this umbrella is made by Lastolite, I wanted some quality product. Flash was setuped manually at 1/8 power and this all was mounted on my second tripod, the Hama Star 62.

I was shooting with my Canon 28-70. Great lens for portraits because you can get wide shot and than zoom in for head shot. My favorite 70-200 lens had not been used so much as I wanted to but 28-70 is also great lens, a bit old but very, very sharp. My 450D was setuped at ISO 200, 1/200s and f/5.6. Lens was zoomed in @53mm. Here is the final shot, hope you like it!

 

Portrait

Hi everybody, what is more important? Getting sharp images or getting less noisy but blurry images? For most photographers the most important thing is to get sharp shots. But how to get them? I realized many photographers don’t know about it so I think I could post here some tips about getting sharp shots.

What will be the first tip? Well … Da Grip by Joe McNally. He is fenomenal photographer and in this video he shows you how to hold your camera, what to do, what not to do and other stuff. If you are left eye shooter than even better because you can use the same technique Joe is using. But enought me talking, here is Joe!